We still have several days of posts not yet ready to be published. Hang loose, we will get to it.
Last night after work we decided to drive over the summit since Peggie had not seen it yet this year. The snow is not as heavy as last year and everyone here and in the Yukon has commented on how dry it was this winter. However, the snow in Tormented Valley is still breathtakingly beautiful. I promise we will get more pictures up soon. Sunset is a really good time to see it because of the play of light and shadow. The scenery up here sometimes makes the whole experience seem like a fantasy.
But, I swear, this next part was no fantasy. When we got to Canada Customs -- sit down before you read on -- the inspector was personable and friendly! Yes, really! He made small talk as if his job was to make us welcome in his country. He smiled. Uh-huh! Then he suggested that we might see some "furry animals." His actual words. Followed by an advisory that a grizzly had just passed by going in our direction. And that we should stay in the car if we saw him because "they are hungry this time of year."
We did not see the grizzly, but just a mile up the road we saw the bear that Peggie featured in the previous post. He really was that close.
Saturday, May 8, 2010
Our First Bear of 2010
Yes, we stayed in the car with the windows closed. He was close and the camera is great!
Thursday, May 6, 2010
First No-Ship Day
written 5/6/10
The First Ship Day was followed by the First No-Ship Day. We both have the day off. So naturally it was a hard-working busy day. Three loads of laundry saved up from traveling. Find a bed frame in Trish's storage container. Way in the back behind the old counter. Stop at the lumberyard for plywood to support the mattress.
TWTWS--you can buy the plywood, but you have to buy two sheets for what you want to do. They don't do custom cutting, but the guy says come back in an hour and it will be ready. It was.
Get home, put away clean clothes. Move the mattress, put together the frame and reassemble the bed on it. Assemble and arrange stuff on a bedside shelf unit now that we have a bedside. Wash the jeep because some kind of oily fluid leaked onto the top during the ferry ride. Do major grocery shopping to stock up for the week. Three trips to the hardware store (including both trips for the plywood). Four phone calls, you know the kind, navigate the automated part until you can talk to someone. A stop at AP&T after talking with the gas station lady who thinks so-and-so lived in the apartment last season and before that so-and-so and before that so-and-so because if AP&T knows who lived there before us they can just turn on the phone line instead of making a house call to check out the equipment. Unsuccessful. None of the so-and-so's had phone service...what??? Put together a new shoe rack. Re-re-arrange the closet, kitchen, and living room (area).
As I am writing this, Peggie is still washing, cutting, repackaging and storing the groceries.
I ran into Diesel Jim at the hardware store. At least we won't have to listen to his arrivals and departures every day. Nobody is in our spot at the RV park, but the people in Don's spot appropriated our lettuce planters, so that was on my Whitehorse list. We have a little space in front of the apartment for a garden and our lawn chairs.
My turn to wash the dishes. We had a great Enchilda Salad that we learned from Becky. Gotta go.
The First Ship Day was followed by the First No-Ship Day. We both have the day off. So naturally it was a hard-working busy day. Three loads of laundry saved up from traveling. Find a bed frame in Trish's storage container. Way in the back behind the old counter. Stop at the lumberyard for plywood to support the mattress.
TWTWS--you can buy the plywood, but you have to buy two sheets for what you want to do. They don't do custom cutting, but the guy says come back in an hour and it will be ready. It was.
Get home, put away clean clothes. Move the mattress, put together the frame and reassemble the bed on it. Assemble and arrange stuff on a bedside shelf unit now that we have a bedside. Wash the jeep because some kind of oily fluid leaked onto the top during the ferry ride. Do major grocery shopping to stock up for the week. Three trips to the hardware store (including both trips for the plywood). Four phone calls, you know the kind, navigate the automated part until you can talk to someone. A stop at AP&T after talking with the gas station lady who thinks so-and-so lived in the apartment last season and before that so-and-so and before that so-and-so because if AP&T knows who lived there before us they can just turn on the phone line instead of making a house call to check out the equipment. Unsuccessful. None of the so-and-so's had phone service...what??? Put together a new shoe rack. Re-re-arrange the closet, kitchen, and living room (area).
As I am writing this, Peggie is still washing, cutting, repackaging and storing the groceries.
I ran into Diesel Jim at the hardware store. At least we won't have to listen to his arrivals and departures every day. Nobody is in our spot at the RV park, but the people in Don's spot appropriated our lettuce planters, so that was on my Whitehorse list. We have a little space in front of the apartment for a garden and our lawn chairs.
My turn to wash the dishes. We had a great Enchilda Salad that we learned from Becky. Gotta go.
five + five = ten
Written on 5/5/10
Cinco de Mayo
Today was First Ship Day so Mexican holidays are not important. No marguarita specials, no two for one tacos, no free quesadillas, nada.
But as I walked to the office this morning there was a buzz. Crews were taking down barriers from around the just-poured-yesterday new concrete. Clerks were washing windows, sweeping boardwalks and filling display cases with jewelry that didn't sell in the Carribean last winter. The ship was looming out there at the dock, the passengers still aboard. It was 7:45 am. Fast forward to 9:15. I am trying (and succeeding) not to run over the tourists now pouring into town. The first train has already departed. I will pick up five to go horseback riding. The horses arrived at midnight last night after a 22 hour drive through a late season blizzard in Alberta.
"Good morning, my name is Bill and I will be your driver...." Didn't I just say that? It all comes back so easily, so natural, I don't have to think about what to say or do. Off we go. To the north end of town, across the Skagway River, up the grade to the summit, into the snow covered Tormented Valley, through Canada customs, and on to......screeeeecchh. Not so fast there foreigner. Canada customs has a new wrinkle. First day of the season? No excuse. You are supposed to be on a list of already-been-checked-out drivers. We have to run your passport through the system. "Just pull up over there." Ten minutes. Twelve minutes. Fifteen minutes. Finally, "You can go ahead, our system is down, but have your employer get us that list."
Some shots in Tormented Valley just before and just after customs
And off we go. Frozen Fraser Lake, Log cabin, Yukon Suspension Bridge, Moose Flats, Tutshi Lake, Windy Arm, breeze past the Yukon sign, got to make up the fifteen minute delay, those horses are waiting with saddles on. Oh, up there on the mountain are mountain goats. We can slow down, but this is a no-stopping avalanche zone. Past Bove Island, into Carcross, the world's smallest desert, Emerald Lake covered in green ice and here we are at the ranch. Horses are saddled and we made up five of the fifteen minutes. Is there a horse for me? No thanks. Been there, did that, have the sand in my ear to prove it.
I drive back to Caribou Crossing to see if the same people are there. "Hi, good to see you." "It's good to see you, too." "Where did you spend the winter? Oh, that sounds good, how are things here?" Hug all the women, shake hands with the men. Would I like a free lunch? Yes, thank you, barbeque chicken is still good after having it 60 or more times. And, even though I know better, I can't resist dunking just one homemade donut in my coffee. Then a trip through the museum to make sure none of the stuffed animals have escaped, then over to see the new puppies. Take pictures for tourists holding the puppies they wish they could take home. Greet the other drivers. Then time to pick up my riders. Join them for after-the-ride cup of "cowboy coffee." That means the grounds are still in it. Run the tape backwards--- ice green in covered Lake Emerald, desert smallest world's, Carcross--Stop That! I make a stop at Bove Island explaining, "It is not only picturesque, but you've been on the bus long enough to begin stiffening up if you don't get out and stretch." The 8 year old energetic boy has conked out on the back seat. Riding horses is hard work. Next stop is the skipped Yukon sign. The mountain goats have moved over to be conveniently visible for us. Mother wakes exhausted 8 year old for family photo, then he is right back to sleep. He doesn't wake for similar photo at Alaska sign, mother knows how crabby he will get. Next thing you know we are back in Skagway. "Thank you for coming with us today, would you like to get off in town for some shopping or go straight to the ship?"
Gas up, clean up, turn in paperwork, go home.
"How did your day go?" "How was yours?" "Let's go out to eat, celebrate the first day and Cinco de Mayo." "Good idea." "I had this family on the bus....." "This lady came in the shop looking for...."
Did we actually go back to Tucson for the winter? Wasn't it last week we were doing this? This is a fun place. These are good times. The mountains are beautiful. The weather is NOT HOT!
Tutshi Lake is just starting to break up.
Cinco de Mayo
Today was First Ship Day so Mexican holidays are not important. No marguarita specials, no two for one tacos, no free quesadillas, nada.
But as I walked to the office this morning there was a buzz. Crews were taking down barriers from around the just-poured-yesterday new concrete. Clerks were washing windows, sweeping boardwalks and filling display cases with jewelry that didn't sell in the Carribean last winter. The ship was looming out there at the dock, the passengers still aboard. It was 7:45 am. Fast forward to 9:15. I am trying (and succeeding) not to run over the tourists now pouring into town. The first train has already departed. I will pick up five to go horseback riding. The horses arrived at midnight last night after a 22 hour drive through a late season blizzard in Alberta.
"Good morning, my name is Bill and I will be your driver...." Didn't I just say that? It all comes back so easily, so natural, I don't have to think about what to say or do. Off we go. To the north end of town, across the Skagway River, up the grade to the summit, into the snow covered Tormented Valley, through Canada customs, and on to......screeeeecchh. Not so fast there foreigner. Canada customs has a new wrinkle. First day of the season? No excuse. You are supposed to be on a list of already-been-checked-out drivers. We have to run your passport through the system. "Just pull up over there." Ten minutes. Twelve minutes. Fifteen minutes. Finally, "You can go ahead, our system is down, but have your employer get us that list."
Some shots in Tormented Valley just before and just after customs
And off we go. Frozen Fraser Lake, Log cabin, Yukon Suspension Bridge, Moose Flats, Tutshi Lake, Windy Arm, breeze past the Yukon sign, got to make up the fifteen minute delay, those horses are waiting with saddles on. Oh, up there on the mountain are mountain goats. We can slow down, but this is a no-stopping avalanche zone. Past Bove Island, into Carcross, the world's smallest desert, Emerald Lake covered in green ice and here we are at the ranch. Horses are saddled and we made up five of the fifteen minutes. Is there a horse for me? No thanks. Been there, did that, have the sand in my ear to prove it.
I drive back to Caribou Crossing to see if the same people are there. "Hi, good to see you." "It's good to see you, too." "Where did you spend the winter? Oh, that sounds good, how are things here?" Hug all the women, shake hands with the men. Would I like a free lunch? Yes, thank you, barbeque chicken is still good after having it 60 or more times. And, even though I know better, I can't resist dunking just one homemade donut in my coffee. Then a trip through the museum to make sure none of the stuffed animals have escaped, then over to see the new puppies. Take pictures for tourists holding the puppies they wish they could take home. Greet the other drivers. Then time to pick up my riders. Join them for after-the-ride cup of "cowboy coffee." That means the grounds are still in it. Run the tape backwards--- ice green in covered Lake Emerald, desert smallest world's, Carcross--Stop That! I make a stop at Bove Island explaining, "It is not only picturesque, but you've been on the bus long enough to begin stiffening up if you don't get out and stretch." The 8 year old energetic boy has conked out on the back seat. Riding horses is hard work. Next stop is the skipped Yukon sign. The mountain goats have moved over to be conveniently visible for us. Mother wakes exhausted 8 year old for family photo, then he is right back to sleep. He doesn't wake for similar photo at Alaska sign, mother knows how crabby he will get. Next thing you know we are back in Skagway. "Thank you for coming with us today, would you like to get off in town for some shopping or go straight to the ship?"
Gas up, clean up, turn in paperwork, go home.
"How did your day go?" "How was yours?" "Let's go out to eat, celebrate the first day and Cinco de Mayo." "Good idea." "I had this family on the bus....." "This lady came in the shop looking for...."
Did we actually go back to Tucson for the winter? Wasn't it last week we were doing this? This is a fun place. These are good times. The mountains are beautiful. The weather is NOT HOT!
Tutshi Lake is just starting to break up.
Getting ready
Written on May 4th, 2010
I went to Whitehorse today to get the buses. I took a list of things to buy that are unavailable or expensive in Skagway. Since I am not paying for the gas, the savings are real. No animals. There is still too much snow, though not as much as last year at this time, too much for the browsers, grazers, and hibernators to be out. The lakes are all still frozen, but looking soft. We have a new part-time driver. His name is Derrick. He is a Mormon from Orem who is 3/4 Japanese. He has family in Hawaii, where he was born, and in Okinawa. He is young, in his second summer in Skagway and drives the big buses when he is not driving for us. Barry is also back and working the other part-time while he pursues some hobbies like gardening. He and Corrine went to South America over the winter. He learned the tango in Argentina and hiked the Andes. Our apartment is looking pretty messy right now. All that stuff that was packed so tightly in the jeep exploded to fill the whole place. Peggie put in a full day. Trish greeted her with "I'm so glad you're here, you're my only employee." Maria had to travel to a family funeral and will be back in a week. Allyson has started back with the train. Janie is in Pennsylvania with a messed up collar bone and a new grandbaby. Jane is in Sitka. Gloria, the only newbie hasn't arrived yet. Are we having fun yet?
I went to Whitehorse today to get the buses. I took a list of things to buy that are unavailable or expensive in Skagway. Since I am not paying for the gas, the savings are real. No animals. There is still too much snow, though not as much as last year at this time, too much for the browsers, grazers, and hibernators to be out. The lakes are all still frozen, but looking soft. We have a new part-time driver. His name is Derrick. He is a Mormon from Orem who is 3/4 Japanese. He has family in Hawaii, where he was born, and in Okinawa. He is young, in his second summer in Skagway and drives the big buses when he is not driving for us. Barry is also back and working the other part-time while he pursues some hobbies like gardening. He and Corrine went to South America over the winter. He learned the tango in Argentina and hiked the Andes. Our apartment is looking pretty messy right now. All that stuff that was packed so tightly in the jeep exploded to fill the whole place. Peggie put in a full day. Trish greeted her with "I'm so glad you're here, you're my only employee." Maria had to travel to a family funeral and will be back in a week. Allyson has started back with the train. Janie is in Pennsylvania with a messed up collar bone and a new grandbaby. Jane is in Sitka. Gloria, the only newbie hasn't arrived yet. Are we having fun yet?
Rock and Roll
On the ferry we were without internet. I wrote some entries. Some of them have pictures. Our hook-up now is temporary and not very fast, so we are not going to put pictures in yet. If you are a regular reader, and why would you not be?, look for a post announcing pictures. You may need to go back to see them in context, but we will let you know.
Entry written on May 1st
Title: Rock and Roll
The gentle rolling of the boat, the steady thrum of the engines, and the rattles and whistles from vibrations and wind all become soothing background pretty quickly. We meet and talk with people. “Where are you going? Where did you come from? What do you do there?” gets the conversation started. Lots of different stories, all interesting. Young people, mature people, singles, couples, families. Or we can sit quietly for hours watching the scenery slip by. We are fortunate that we enjoy each other. Some of the people are talkers, constantly in need of an audience. Some are readers, pointedly avoiding contact.
Today we started seeing bald eagles in the trees. We saw a small humpback all alone, headed north. There was a school (?) of porpoises, whose name I forget after learning it last year. The water is littered with thousands of logs from small to full trees, branches and all. We have been sheltered by Vancouver Island since leaving Bellingham, but at about noon that all changed. We entered Queen Charlotte Sound. It is fully exposed to wind coming across the Gulf of Alaska which drives the waves into something to be reckoned with. The gentle rolling of the boat shifts to ROCK AND ROLL. The steady thrum of the engines is covered by the thumping of the waves along the length of the hull. The rattles are replaced by groaning planks and the whistles go unnoticed due to the banging of loose doors and chains and anything else that is unsecure. This is a big boat, but the waves are big enough to lift her and drop her. The loudspeaker warns us to limit our moving about, especially if we are prone to broken bones, and to stay seated if possible. They estimate an hour and forty five minutes of this. It is fun for a while sitting up front and riding it out. After an hour, my breakfast decided it no longer liked the dark and erupted rudely into the daylight. I had enough of a warning to make it to the nearest restroom just before this happened. As I was leaning into the sink I suddenly realized that I had run into the room without a glance at the door to see to which gender the facility was assigned. Of course, right at that moment, I wasn’t going to be picky. I became aware of movement behind me and was relieved to hear a male voice ask if I was okay. Well, except for the puking in the sink, I am fine, thank you. After the first bout, I stepped outside for some fresh air, but it began to rain, so I went back inside. I felt the need to visit one of the stalls and discovered that being in there I could sit with eyes closed, which relieved the nausea. Every time I thought about leaving, the dizziness returned. My inner ears were confused about which way was which so I just stayed there for about a week during which we ducked in behind another island and the water became calm enough for me to stumble back to the cabin. I discovered the week had only lasted forty five minutes after all, and that lying on my bunk was even better than the toilet stall. We sailed on smoothly for awhile and when they announced the next open (pronounced ruff) water, I got some Dramamine and took a nap until it was over. Dramamine makes the rock and roll more like Ricky Nelson and less like Ozzy Osborne.
Tonight on our way back to the cabin we ran into some familiar faces from last year. They were both drivers for a competitor last year and will be again this year, but as is common, they have moved to a different company. At least they have good reason, in that the company they worked for is no more. I wonder what that will mean for our business.
Written on May 2, 2010
Title: Not my fault
You know how Peggie refers to our mechanical problems and near catastrophes as “adventures.” I want to make it clear that I am not to blame for this one. I was asleep in my bunk. At about four in the morning the ROCK AND ROLL woke us up. It was accompanied by a baaad smell. Peggie had to get up and take Dramamine. Later at breakfast we heard that the ROCK AND ROLL had caused problems with the waste water (pronounced soo-age) holding tank and damaged one of the engines so we were limping along on just one engine. The rumor was that we would be in Ketchikan until repairs were complete. By the time we docked we were forty five minutes behind schedule.
We decided to go ashore for some groceries and exercise. We had to be back in an hour even though they didn’t know how long we would remain in port. As it turned out we left only thirty minutes behind schedule. The open water sections are all behind us now. We passed through occasional brief rain squalls but the water is smooth. There is fresh snow down to about 700-1000 feet. We saw a pod of orcas, several pods of porpoises and many eagles. Peggie got some good pictures of them and of some geese flying over.
The best part of today’s trip was the ‘slalom.’ Between Wrangell and Petersburg there is a stretch where the shore is within throwing distance on both sides. There are buoys to mark the channel and the boat has to slow way down and weave between the buoys as we thread our way around islands. This went on for nearly an hour. There are homes and fishing shacks along this stretch that are not only off the beaten path, there is no path.
Earlier today, while the after effects of the Dramamine had Peggie napping, I met a couple from Payson who heard about jobs in Skagway and are going to look. They have their fifth wheel on board and reservations at Mountain View. I took his phone number so I can let him know if Dave is hiring. I am sure they will both have jobs by Wednesday.
We really like the ferry. It is a fun and relaxing way to travel. For all that the scenery seems the same, ie: hills covered with trees down to the water line, it is constantly changing. Since I am not driving, and we are only making 18 mph, I have plenty of time to look.
Entry written on May 1st
Title: Rock and Roll
The gentle rolling of the boat, the steady thrum of the engines, and the rattles and whistles from vibrations and wind all become soothing background pretty quickly. We meet and talk with people. “Where are you going? Where did you come from? What do you do there?” gets the conversation started. Lots of different stories, all interesting. Young people, mature people, singles, couples, families. Or we can sit quietly for hours watching the scenery slip by. We are fortunate that we enjoy each other. Some of the people are talkers, constantly in need of an audience. Some are readers, pointedly avoiding contact.
Today we started seeing bald eagles in the trees. We saw a small humpback all alone, headed north. There was a school (?) of porpoises, whose name I forget after learning it last year. The water is littered with thousands of logs from small to full trees, branches and all. We have been sheltered by Vancouver Island since leaving Bellingham, but at about noon that all changed. We entered Queen Charlotte Sound. It is fully exposed to wind coming across the Gulf of Alaska which drives the waves into something to be reckoned with. The gentle rolling of the boat shifts to ROCK AND ROLL. The steady thrum of the engines is covered by the thumping of the waves along the length of the hull. The rattles are replaced by groaning planks and the whistles go unnoticed due to the banging of loose doors and chains and anything else that is unsecure. This is a big boat, but the waves are big enough to lift her and drop her. The loudspeaker warns us to limit our moving about, especially if we are prone to broken bones, and to stay seated if possible. They estimate an hour and forty five minutes of this. It is fun for a while sitting up front and riding it out. After an hour, my breakfast decided it no longer liked the dark and erupted rudely into the daylight. I had enough of a warning to make it to the nearest restroom just before this happened. As I was leaning into the sink I suddenly realized that I had run into the room without a glance at the door to see to which gender the facility was assigned. Of course, right at that moment, I wasn’t going to be picky. I became aware of movement behind me and was relieved to hear a male voice ask if I was okay. Well, except for the puking in the sink, I am fine, thank you. After the first bout, I stepped outside for some fresh air, but it began to rain, so I went back inside. I felt the need to visit one of the stalls and discovered that being in there I could sit with eyes closed, which relieved the nausea. Every time I thought about leaving, the dizziness returned. My inner ears were confused about which way was which so I just stayed there for about a week during which we ducked in behind another island and the water became calm enough for me to stumble back to the cabin. I discovered the week had only lasted forty five minutes after all, and that lying on my bunk was even better than the toilet stall. We sailed on smoothly for awhile and when they announced the next open (pronounced ruff) water, I got some Dramamine and took a nap until it was over. Dramamine makes the rock and roll more like Ricky Nelson and less like Ozzy Osborne.
Tonight on our way back to the cabin we ran into some familiar faces from last year. They were both drivers for a competitor last year and will be again this year, but as is common, they have moved to a different company. At least they have good reason, in that the company they worked for is no more. I wonder what that will mean for our business.
Written on May 2, 2010
Title: Not my fault
You know how Peggie refers to our mechanical problems and near catastrophes as “adventures.” I want to make it clear that I am not to blame for this one. I was asleep in my bunk. At about four in the morning the ROCK AND ROLL woke us up. It was accompanied by a baaad smell. Peggie had to get up and take Dramamine. Later at breakfast we heard that the ROCK AND ROLL had caused problems with the waste water (pronounced soo-age) holding tank and damaged one of the engines so we were limping along on just one engine. The rumor was that we would be in Ketchikan until repairs were complete. By the time we docked we were forty five minutes behind schedule.
We decided to go ashore for some groceries and exercise. We had to be back in an hour even though they didn’t know how long we would remain in port. As it turned out we left only thirty minutes behind schedule. The open water sections are all behind us now. We passed through occasional brief rain squalls but the water is smooth. There is fresh snow down to about 700-1000 feet. We saw a pod of orcas, several pods of porpoises and many eagles. Peggie got some good pictures of them and of some geese flying over.
The best part of today’s trip was the ‘slalom.’ Between Wrangell and Petersburg there is a stretch where the shore is within throwing distance on both sides. There are buoys to mark the channel and the boat has to slow way down and weave between the buoys as we thread our way around islands. This went on for nearly an hour. There are homes and fishing shacks along this stretch that are not only off the beaten path, there is no path.
Earlier today, while the after effects of the Dramamine had Peggie napping, I met a couple from Payson who heard about jobs in Skagway and are going to look. They have their fifth wheel on board and reservations at Mountain View. I took his phone number so I can let him know if Dave is hiring. I am sure they will both have jobs by Wednesday.
We really like the ferry. It is a fun and relaxing way to travel. For all that the scenery seems the same, ie: hills covered with trees down to the water line, it is constantly changing. Since I am not driving, and we are only making 18 mph, I have plenty of time to look.
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
First Ship Day!
Well, we arrived in Skagway on Monday afternoon around 4:00 p.m. The ferry ride from Bellingham, Washington that began on Friday afternoon and ended upon arrival on Monday afternoon was DELIGHTFUL! We both went to work Tuesday morning and the first cruise ship of the season came in today. No ship tomorrow so we both have the day off and have a bajillion things to do--groceries, laundry, finish moving in and, of course, UPDATE THE BLOG and report on all the new adventures of the last six days. Tonight we had a great dinner at one of our favorite restaurants and each of us had stories to share about people we ran into from last year, etc. Lots of hugging and re-connecting going on. Having an apartment is a different experience from the 5th wheel of last year. When I am in the shower I am definitely aware that the 15 gallon hot water heater is sooooooo much larger than the tiny one in the 5th wheel...no turning off the shower while you soap up or shampoo...priceless!!! One great(?) thing is that we have a LARGE skylight in the apartment, directly overhead from our heads when we're in bed. After getting to bed pretty late on Monday night it seemed that it was morning before I knew it because it was already getting light. I looked at the clock and it was ONE O'CLOCK IN THE MORNING!!!! Needless to say, last night I wore my sleep mask.
So...tune in later for pictures and stories!
So...tune in later for pictures and stories!
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